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Teas from ... China

By Lady Gayle

Tasting different teas is very similar to tasting different wines. You must experience the flavor, the scent, the different colors of each brew. You must experiment with just the right temperature and brewing time for various types of tea to achieve the strength and flavor that is just right for you. 

Teas from different countries have their own definite flavor and distinction. When you begin to explore teas from different regions you will begin to understand the passion and appreciation so many people have for tea. 

In China, teas are grouped into several different categories: green (un-oxidized); white (steamed and dried only); yellow (un-oxidized yellow brew); oolong (semi-oxidized); black (oxidized); and scented/flower tea (scented with flowers such as jasmine, osmanthus, orchid, rose). There is also a dark black tea called pu-erh, produced by natural oxidation methods, and the older the better. 

Teas are named according to where they are grown, how they are processed, and also by the shape of the leaf and/or the final presentation of the leaf. You will notice different flavors because of differences in growing and climate conditions, time of plucking, and again the way the leaves were processed. Very complex. Caffeine levels vary also depending upon how long the leaves have been on the plant and how much, if any, sun exposure the plant has received.

The most sought-after teas by true tea connoisseurs are tea leaves plucked early in the season comprising young two leaves with bud. The price for tea varies greatly. Teas are plucked in different seasons. Plucking time, quality, production, and more determine price. The most expensive teas are from centuries-old plants grown in perfect conditions: plants may be few, producing less than other areas, and thus the price is higher. 

Many teas are steeped in clear glass to completely enjoy the performance of the leaves. Really! Some leaves are tightly rolled into little balls, sometimes called pearl tea or gunpowder tea. Watching these leaves unfurl is a pleasurable experience. Some tea leaves are twisted together to form the shape of a flower. Each and every tea experience is unique in flavor, and the performance of the leaves presents a new dance every time. Not just your everyday cup of “black teabag tea!” 

Did you know that oolong and black tea are a newer process for teas in China? In fact, most Chinese do not drink black tea; rather they consume mostly green. More than half of the teas produced in China are for green tea. To people here in the U.S., where green teas and white teas have been receiving a lot of positive press for health benefits,.green tea seems like a very new thing. 

Explore the world of tea. Experience, taste, and enjoy different types of tea. If tea is your business, read, read, and read a lot to learn more. I highly recommend New Tea Lover’s Treasury by James Norwood Pratt: enjoyable reading, very educational, and a great reference tool when sharing tea knowledge with others. 

To learn more, search for and attend classes; sign up for tea tastings with various companies to taste and learn about teas from different regions; or visit a tea expo to fully experience the world of tea. And become a member of Teamail™ (a Yahoo group) -- a great way to learn more about tea. This is a group of very knowledgeable and experienced tea lovers sharing their passions for tea. You may participate via email or just enjoy reading and learning from member-posted email messages. 

Enjoy any variety of tea that pleases you, but be glad we have learned about the different varieties of tea and the higher levels of antioxidants in green teas. Visit back here soon for another article about a different tea producing region.

Lady Gayle is the Editor/Publisher of
The Tea House Times
Celebrating a passion for tea, Victorian treasures, and friendship.

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TEA! Why?

By Lady Gayle

TEA! Why is it such a popular drink? Why do people devote their entire business to selling it? Why are there so many different varieties when all tea comes from the same plant, Camellia sinensis?

Tea has been cultivated for more than 800 years and quite possibly from the same plant. The plants are so hardy that they may be cultivated many times over during a growing cycle. Because the plants are so hardy, the same plants have been growing and cultivated for many, many years. With the frequency of cultivation, tea supplies are abundant and therefore tea has become the most popular beverage besides water.

The selling of tea -- whether at a tea room, tea salon, or retail shop -- is very popular because it can be adapted to whatever the theme or focus of your business is. Perhaps your business has an Asian flair; you might choose teas to sell based on the region the tea was grown in. Perhaps you are running a tea room and would like to stay with simple teas and general, well-known varieties. 

Or perhaps you are running a tea salon; here you may offer a very extensive variety for those who wish to sample teas from different regions. Anything goes, and it is all up to your own personal tastes and desires. People are looking to try new things, especially with the positive press that the health benefits of tea have presented.

Tea plants in China have smaller leaves, and tea plants from Assam (NE India) have larger leaves. Plants have been transplanted to many regions of the world. Tea is grown and available from China, India, Japan, Taiwan (Formosa), Sri Lanka (Ceylon), Indonesia, Africa, and several other countries, including United States. 

Tea has been cultivated for such a long time that many sub-varieties exist, but the flavors are similar. What sets teas apart is the region and environmental conditions of growth, and also the ways in which the leaves are processed. Black, green, and white teas all come from the same tea plant; the different tastes are a result of the tea leaves being processed differently … but that’s another story.

Enjoy your tea!

Lady Gayle is the Editor/Publisher of
The Tea House Times
Celebrating a passion for tea, Victorian treasures, and friendship.

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Tea Customs and Jewish Culture

by Janis Badarau

Although tea is not inherently a Jewish beverage, Jewish people have enjoyed tea wherever they have lived around the world, adopting the local customs and accoutrements connected to it – and establishing a few customs of their own.

Jewish people have been living in the Middle East, our homeland, and northern Africa for over 2,500 years, usually under persecution by the ruling regimes as well as harassment by their neighbours. During the ninth century C.E. (“current era,” equivalent to the Christian A.D.), a group of Jewish merchants left Persia for China with their families, traveling along the “silk road” trade route. They settled in the city of Kaifeng, located about 350 miles southwest of Beijing. Here they found acceptance, and freedom from persecution. 

Although there is no available direct evidence, it is likely that as merchants they would have been involved in trade – including tea – between China and Central Asia to the Middle East. Marco Polo, who is credited with documenting the trade routes to the Far East, describes in his travel diary that he met Jews in China in 1286. I like to think that they shared a pot of tea as they discussed practical matters of trade.  

There are very few Jewish people left in China today. India, Japan, and other Far Eastern countries also have small Jewish populations living in their midst.

Perhaps more familiar to most people are the East European countries where there were large communities of Jewish people. These countries have their traditions of tea, but more often than not when East Europeans speak of “tea” they are referring to herbal infusions. Amongst the most popular are linden (lime), chamomile, and peppermint. Russians, however, do like their black tea. 

The largest East European Jewish populations resided in Poland and Russia, invited in the 14^th century by the respective governments to increase their local populations following the decimations of the Black Plague, as well as to bring their skills as artisans, merchants, professionals, and bankers to these countries. Jewish businessmen traded in many commodities, including tea.

Little by little, however, the freedoms of Jews in Russia and Poland were restricted. In 1791, the Russian government established the Pale of Settlement as the territory where Jewish people were permitted to live; mass expulsions from Moscow, St. Petersburg, and other areas followed. The geographic area of the Pale encompassed a region that approximates all or part of the current Baltic states, Ukraine, Moldova, and Poland. (The Pale was abolished in 1917 following the overthrow of the Czarist regime.)

Jewish people living in the Pale were further restricted to certain trades that did not compete with those of non-Jews; due to the limitations for work and employment, the vast majority of Jews lived in severely impoverished conditions.

No doubt you are familiar with Russian tea ware: samovars, tea glasses in elegant silver holders, fine porcelains. A very small number of professional Jews – mostly master craftsmen, physicians, lawyers, international brokers, and bankers – were permitted to live and practice in the cities, and they enjoyed these luxuries, along with fine delicacies, at tea time.  

These wealthier Jewish people developed a dramatic ceremony for Chanukah, The Festival of Lights. Glasses of tea were poured from a samovar and passed to all the guests, along with a cube of sugar dipped into brandy. The sugar cube was placed on a teaspoon and held over their glass. Each sugar cube was lit with a match or a candle, the guests would sing songs, and then, all together at a signal, drop the cubes into their glasses of tea.  

For most Jewish people, however, tea was a far simpler affair. It was normally drunk from small, thick glasses, held with middle finger on the bottom edge and thumb on the top rim to steady it while avoiding burns. Those who could not afford glasses used pottery or metal cups. Some homes were fortunate to have a samovar, but most poured water from the kettle into a teapot or directly into the glass, and the leaves were strained or scooped out. Sugar was not added directly to the tea; a small piece was held in the mouth, allowing the hot liquid to mix with sweetness on the tongue. Those who could afford it drank strong tea; the less fortunate diluted their tea with more water. 

My grandmother, who lived in New York City, kept a bowl of sugar cubes on her table, and would bite off a piece and hold it between her back teeth as she sipped her White Rose or Salada tea. These were the teas normally served in kosher households in the mid-twentieth century. (Kosher, Hebrew for “fit” or “proper;” – the dietary laws as explained in the Torah, the first five books of the Bible, which is sometimes referred to as The Old Testament.)  If it was a special occasion we’d get Swee-Touch-Nee, the tea with the exotic packaging and (to our inexperienced palates) a romantically exotic taste. We always used teabags because Grandma wanted to be very American, not like some bumpkin from the shtetl who didn’t know about modern conveniences! (Shtetl is the Yiddish word for the mid-size towns in the Pale of Settlement.)  

Tea accompaniments usually included a plain cake, like my grandmother’s unrivaled sponge cake, a fruit cake or nut cake, egg kichels (an air-puffed, lightly sweetened cookie), challah (a special braided bread) with jam, fresh or dried fruits, and nuts. Here in the USA, my grandmother added Jordan almonds (candy-coated nuts) and Hydrox cookies – two special kosher treats – for her American grandchildren’s sweet tooth. She sometimes joked that we had turned Sephardic because we preferred sweeter desserts. (East European Jews are referred to as Ashkenazi. Jews from the Middle East are called Sephardic, as are the Jews of Spain, most of whom emigrated from the Middle East following the Moorish conquest of Iberia.)  

Back to the Middle East, where Jewish people usually followed the tea-drinking traditions of their Turkish neighbours, sipping black or green tea from an hourglass-shaped glass on a bowl-shaped saucer, and with plenty of honey or date sugar. Accompaniments were usually rich and sweet, often drizzled with honey syrup. When Russian Jews began arriving in Israel in the late 1800s and early 1900s, they brought their traditions of black tea. Both of these customs have mingled with the organic herbs that are a specialty of progressive Israeli farmers. Today in Israel, when it’s 4pm and time to break for “cake and…” you have a wide choice of what you can have in your cup and on your plate.  

Here in the USA, observant Jewish people who follow kosher dietary laws have a significantly larger selection of teas to choose from than my grandmother did. While tea itself, being an agricultural product, is inherently kosher, the additives, processing, or packaging can render the finished product non-kosher. Any additives derived from meat or dairy (some caramel flavourings, for example), tea packaged in certain types of teabag materials, or tea processed or packed on equipment that has previously processed a non-kosher product would render the tea non-kosher. But more and more food processors are configuring their factories and tailoring their blendings to conform to kosher requirements.

As American tastes in tea become more sophisticated in general, the demand for high-quality kosher teas has resulted in wider availability. I recently learned, for example, that Harney & Sons has received kosher certification for most of their teas. Wissotzky, a kosher tea company originated by a Russian Jew in Moscow in 1849, now offers premium loose-leaf teas. Among the newcomers, Generation Tea offers a sizeable selection of premium kosher teas.

All of these teas to be enjoyed, of course, according to one’s own favourite tea customs.    

These recipes can be found in our vegan recipe collection:
Russian Tea Cakes
Russian Tea

©Copyright 2004 by Janis Badarau. All rights reserved. This article was published previously in The TeaTime Gazette.
___________________________  

Janis Badarau is Editor and Publisher of Tea Digest™, TeaGuide™, and The Cat-Tea Corner™.

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Tea "Benefits"

By Lady Gayle

The benefits of drinking tea go beyond health. Tea is definitely hot right now, and will become even more so in the coming years. Studies show that tea is very popular for its health “benefits,” but how else may we benefit from tea?

“Taking tea” gives us a break from our busy lives, and a lovely afternoon tea provides precious time with family and friends. Lingering over a pot of tea and enjoying some delicious treats -- what could be better?

Numerous organizations are choosing to host afternoon teas to “benefit” various charities; a refreshing change from the ordinary benefit luncheons or dinners. A well-planned afternoon tea complete, with inexpensive party favors, entertainment (perhaps a lecture on tea, etiquette, or Victorian history), and a short presentation about your organization and the charity you plan to benefit will provide the perfect afternoon getaway -- and a delightful way to raise funds.

Lady Gayle is the Editor/Publisher of
The Tea House Times
Celebrating a passion for tea, Victorian treasures, and friendship.

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For the Love of Tea

By Lady Gayle

There are so many ways to enjoy tea. Some have a passion for the leaf, exploring, traveling, and tasting every variety. Some have a deep interest in the origins of tea and the widespread acceptance of the drink. 

Others have a passion for tea accoutrements; pots -- made in so many different ways -- strainers, china, and silver. Collecting all things related to tea, old and new, is very popular.

Many enjoy the charm and hospitality of afternoon tea, its history, and the enjoyment the ritual brings. Some like it just for the food! Spending time with friends and enjoying tea, what could be better?

Educating people about tea is another passion. There are many quality books and publications about tea to enjoy in a variety of formats. Experts and lecturers share history and preparation of tea as well as tea tasting. 

And then there are the tea growers and manufacturers themselves. We thank you for your continued passion in bringing the rest of us tea lovers the delicious varieties of this quality, healthful beverage! 

Whatever your pleasure, celebrate your passion for tea in your own special way. Share your love of the leaf. Whether you are new to tea or an expert, take time for tea with family and friends and enjoy tea as a daily retreat.

Lady Gayle is the Editor/Publisher of
The Tea House Times
Celebrating a passion for tea, Victorian treasures, and friendship.

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A Very Veggie Tea

by Janis Badarau

You're planning a lovely tea party. You've decorated the room perfectly, chosen just the right music, invited charming guests, created a menu of delicious goodies. And then ... oh no! You discover that one of your guests is ... a vegetarian! What can you possibly serve to this guest? 

What exactly do vegetarians eat (and not eat)? There are several different vegetarian diets, so it can get a little confusing. 

While all vegetarians avoid meat (including poultry or fish) some happily eat dairy, eggs, and honey. For these guests, if any part of your menu includes these foods but no meat -- for example, cheese or cream cheese sandwiches, or quiche, or baked goods -- just prepare a little extra and serve a few more of them to the vegetarian. 

Complete vegetarians (called vegan, pronounced VEE-gun) consume no animal products whatsoever. This may seem more difficult to accommodate, but with a little planning it's no trouble at all. 

There are any number of simple yet elegant sandwiches, savouries, and sweets that you can prepare from scratch. Find suggestions in our Menu below. 

Another solution is to use meat and cheese substitutes called analogues, and you can find many tasty varieties in natural food stores and some supermarkets. These soy-based foods mimic the appearance, aroma, and flavour of the "real" thing, so you can, for example, prepare "ham" or "turkey" sandwiches with mustard or egg-free mayonnaise. (Please check the labels to ensure these foods don't contain eggs, dairy products, or honey.) Include a few analogue sandwiches with the dishes you prepare from scratch, and don't be surprised when your non-veg guests sample -- and enjoy. 

Be sure to clearly mark the vegan offerings so there will be no unpleasant "accidents" of eating the wrong thing. A toothpick with a cherry tomato or an olive can signal vegan dishes, or place the vegan foods onto plates of a different colour or pattern from the rest of the items you're serving.

And don't be afraid to season foods. Many people believe that vegetarians like plain, bland foods, but most of us prefer well-seasoned or spicy dishes!

While I consider it the responsibility of the guest to gently advise the host/ess of any special dietary requirements, if you're not sure what your guests include in their diets, don't hesitate to ask them. The same holds true if a guest is diabetic, lactose-intolerant, on a salt-free diet, or has food allergies. (And many vegan dishes are suitable for these diets as well.) 

If you want to play up your veggie menu, decorate the room with animal-motif table linens, serving ware, and centerpieces. Or be subtle and use a seasonal colour combination, including rich golds, browns, reds, and greens for an autumn tea. Pastels work nicely for spring and summer teas, and for holiday teas choose colours appropriate to that particular celebration. Accent with a few special pieces: a charming cat-shaped teapot, a fanciful cow creamer (for dairy, soy, almond, or rice milk), napkin rings with assorted animals, maybe a treasured teddy bear seated on the sideboard. 

Music can include Erik Satie's Carnival of the Animals, or Tschaikovsky's Nutcracker Suite (to evoke memories of all the silly cartoon animals in the film Fantasia). You might even want to prepare your own tape of whimsical tunes such as Teddy Bears' Picnic, Eggplant (Michael Franks), Year of the Cat (Al Stewart), and Hound Dog (Elvis). Or choose your own favourites -- vegetarians are basically normal people with a slightly different diet :-). I generally play light jazz (Spyro Gyra, Najee), standards, or even country music at my tea parties.

Along with the suggested menu, here are some foods to avoid serving to vegetarians: anything containing anchovies, including Worcestershire sauce; anything with gelatin, including aspics, Jell-o moulds, and cakes with gelatin in the frosting; anything prepared with chicken or other animal-based broth; anything prepared with fish sauce or oyster sauce. For vegans, in addition to the above, avoid anything containing honey; casein or whey (present in some margarines); milk chocolate; or milk powder. As you can imagine, vegetarians read a lot of food labels. 

Vegetarians, like other tea lovers, enjoy tea parties for the pleasure of sipping tea with friends, but we very much appreciate when a host/ess serves teatime goodies that we can eat. And you and your non-veg guests may find that you actually like some of our "strange" foods ;-). 

This Very Veggie Tea menu was devised for the month of October in recognition of World Day for Animals. Alter the dishes according to the season and your taste from the selection of over 400 recipes in our vegan recipe collection.

Menu 
Starred * recipes can be found in our vegan recipe collection.

Savouries

Mini Potato Pancakes* (prepared according to the recipe but in "silver dollar" size) with apple sauce, non-dairy Sour “Crème,” or fresh Salsa*

Lentil Nut Loaf* baked in individual loaf pans and served hot; or chilled, cut into half-inch thick slices, and then quartered

Sandwiches

Pea Not Butter* or non-dairy “creme cheese” topped with overlapping layers of thinly sliced radishes, seasoned with freshly ground black pepper, on whole wheat bread

Eggplant “Caviar”* on thin slices of ciabatta bread

Mushroom Paté* on toasted baguette slices

Fasole Batuta* sprinkled with za'atar on whole wheat bread, cut into teapots or other shapes with a cookie cutter

Scones

Raisin Scones* with Sweet Potato Butter* 

Sweets

Fruit-Tea Loaf Cake*

Coconut Cookies* dipped in chocolate

Lavender Cake (vanilla cake* with lavender)

Beverages

Autumnal or second flush Darjeeling tea

Green Tea Cooler*

Chai* or Aussie Chai with lemon myrtle (from Simpson & Vail)

Janis Badarau is Editor and Publisher of Tea Digest™, TeaGuide™, and The Cat-Tea Corner™.

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Ladies' Day
by Kristen Smith

My stepdaughter and I needed to bond more since her mother is still in the picture, so we came up with an idea to start a mother-daughter tea club.

Once a month on every third Saturday, we and our club of twelve get together at one of the members' houses and have a tea party. Requirements are that dress is spring formal; a dress or skirt but no pants.

The hostesses also have guidelines to follow:

• No men ;-).

• One of the hostesses (mother or daughter) reads a small report or fact on tea, so we learn something new each month about tea.

• We always have four different hot teas and two iced teas to choose from.

• The hostesses also provide a special style of food to go with the flavors of tea. If it is an English tea, then some sort of English recipe is in order.

Each hostess also has one new tea item to display at the party: a new  teacup, teapot, tea cozy -- really anything they think is different and special. We also have a "special guest." It could be a speaker on topics other than tea, but something that would interest women. We had a scrap-booking class once, a garden tea party with a master gardener another time, and next month we have a party planner coming to speak.

We live in the very small town of Bayfield, Colorado, and enjoy getting together once a month just to be women and little girls, and enjoy tea and each others' company.

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Of Tea I Sing
by Marjorie Dorfman

"If this is coffee, bring me tea. But if this is tea, please bring me coffee."
 -- Abraham Lincoln

If good old Honest Abe couldn¹t tell the difference between bad coffee and even worse tea, I guess that I am not as far behind the times as I think. I must confess that I am tea illiterate, and one of those people who drinks the amber concoction only when I am not feeling very well. Under those circumstances it doesn¹t matter what kind of tea it is, as long as it¹s hot and steeped with plenty of honey and lemon. I¹ve been told that I¹ve missed out on a wonderful source of caffeine refreshment and have, therefore, decided to educate myself about one of the oldest and most popular drinks in the world today.

The story of tea, according to ancient Chinese legend, began over 5,000 years ago when in 2737 BCE Emperor Shen Nong, required that all drinking water be boiled as a hygienic precaution. In accordance with his ruling, while visiting a distant region of his realm, the servants began to boil water for the royal court to drink. Some dried tea leaves from a nearby bush accidentally blew into a boiling pot and a brown liquid was infused in the water. As an innovative scientist, the emperor was interested in this new liquid, drank some and found it very tasty. Tea consumption spread throughout the Chinese culture, penetrating every aspect of society.

It was during the Ming Dynasty that the method of allowing tea leaves to soak (steep) in hot water before drinking became general practice. About 1500, the first teapots as we know them came into being. These small unglazed purple sand pots with their equally tiny cups are still popular in southern China and Taiwan. During the later Ming, epicurians came to prefer white porcelain teacups, since it allowed the color of the tea to be admired. The art of tea was by this time perfected, and every true connoisseur, shallow or deep, had a tearoom equipped with beautiful décor and utensils where a variety of exquisite teas could be offered to discerning friends.

The first tea leaves were brought to Japan by the Buddhist priest, Yesei, who had seen how tea enhanced the power of religious meditation in China. As a result, he is known as the Father of Tea in Japan. Because of this early association, tea in Japan has always been linked with Zen Buddhism. Tea was elevated to an art form  with the creation of the Japanese tea ceremony. This ritual requires years of training and practice (like that old joke about getting into Carnegie Hall), and yet the whole of its art signifies no more than the making and serving of a cup of tea, albeit in the most perfect, polite, graceful and charming manner possible. Such purity of expression prompted the creation of tea houses, a special form of architecture based on the duplication of a forest cottage. The cultural hostesses of Japan, the Geishi, began to specialize in the presentation of the tea ceremony. Soon after this, Hollywood found one somewhere north of the August Moon.

In the 1600s, tea became popular throughout Europe and the American colonies. The first European to personally encounter tea and write about it was the Portuguese Jesuit Father Jasper de Cruz in 1560. (This was a close encounter of the ninth kind, not to be confused with those of any other ilk.) Portugal and her technologically advanced navy had been successful in gaining the first right of trade with China. It was as a missionary on that first commercial mission to Macao that Father de Cruz had tasted tea four years before. The Portuguese developed a trade route by which they shipped their tea to Lisbon where Dutch ships then transported it to France, Holland and the Baltic countries.

Since colonial days, tea has played a major role in American culture and customs. The colonists of the Dutch settlement of New Amsterdam (New York) were the first Americans to taste tea after it was brought to them via Peter Stuyvesant. By 1720, the tea trade blossomed between the colonies and England, with its matrix in Boston, New York and Philadelphia. As tea was heavily taxed, smugglers became rich (if not so famous) with contraband tea imported from very far away. New and heftier taxes levied against the colonists after the French and Indian War brought the collective realization that the government taketh away before it giveth anything at all, and became the impetus for colonial rebellion in 1767. The Boston Tea Party and its ensuing political ramifications came to symbolize America¹s displeasure with and subsequent rupture from the Mother Country.

The English were focused on the product¹s source, namely the Orient. There the trading of tea had become a way of life, developing even its own language known as Pidgin English. Created solely for commerce, it was composed of English, Portuguese, and Indian words all pronounced in Chinese. The word pidgin is a corrupted form of the Chinese word for "do business." So dominant was the tea culture within English speaking cultures that many of these words have assumed a permanent place in our language. Mandarin comes from the Portuguese word mandar and refers to the court official empowered by the emperor to trade tea. Cash comes from the Portuguese caixa which refers to the currency of tea transactions. Caddy is the Chinese word for one pound weight, the standard tea trade container.

The first three American millionaires, T.H. Perkins of Boston, Stephen Gerard of Philadelphia, and John Jacob Astor of New York, all made their fortunes in tea trafficking. America began direct trade with China soon after the Revolution was over in 1789. Her newer, faster clipper ships far out-sailed the slower, heavier English "tea wagons" that had once dominated the trade. John Jacob Astor began in 1800 and moved on to make another fortune in the fur trade. Steven Gerard was known as the "gentle tea merchant." Thomas Perkins hailed from one of Boston¹s oldest sailing families. Together they broke the English monopoly on tea because their ships were faster and they paid only in gold.

Russian interest in tea began in 1615 when the Chinese Embassy in Moscow presented several chests of tea to Czar Alexis. By the late 1700s, tea was spreading throughout Russian society. The samovar became a popular dispenser, as a combination hot water heater and teapot. Placed in the center of the Russian home, it could run all day and serve up to forty cups of tea at one time. Tea (along with vodka) is the national drink of Russia today.

Tea is made from the leaves of the Camellia sinesis tree. Tea growers prune their bushes, not only to keep them short enough to work with, but also to force the plant to produce repeated flushes of tiny, tender new leaves. Once the tender young leaves are plucked, they must be processed. There are three basic methods used, each producing one of the standard tea types; black, green, or oolong. These terms do not refer to the types of tea leaves but rather to the process.

Black tea is by far the most common. Over 90 percent of the tea consumed in the United States is black tea. The leaves are steamed, rolled (to crack and release the juices), permitted to age, and then fired (thus dried). The aging process ferments the tannin oils and adds to the body and base of the hearty flavored amber brew. The British Isles are the largest importers of tea and most of it is black. The traditional English breakfast tea (which blends well with milk) hails from the Keemun region of China; the traditional Irish is a blend from India and Ceylon. Some of the most popular ones include: English Breakfast, Darjeeling (a Himalayan blend with a subtly lingering aroma reminiscent of Muscatel that is also known as "the champagne of teas;" Earl Grey (a smoky tea with a hint of sweetness to it), and Orange Pekoe (a blend of Ceylon teas that is the most widely used of the tea blends.)

At the other end of the spectrum are green teas, which make up only 10% of the world¹s production. These leaves are steamed and rolled, same as the black, but skip the oxidizing step. They are immediately fired (without severance pay or references) to prevent aging and fermentation. There¹s more of an herbal, fruity taste to green tea because it is closer to the natural leaf. It is more pungent than its black counterpart because the tannin oils are left intact in the process. A great many people prefer the delicate taste, finding it more interesting than the more aged and mellow black. Green tea is the drinker¹s choice in Japan, which is also the world¹s largest producer of this type. It has gained popularity in the United States due in part to recent scientific studies linking it with reduced cancer risk. 

For oolong tea, the leaves are steamed, rolled, and then aged, but the fermentation is cut short. The leaves are fired before they reach the full black stage. Hence, the name of this tea from the Chinese word wu lung, or "black dragon" (black tea with a bite!). It is a cross between black and green tea in color and taste with a flavor that is not raw or bitter with a trace of fruit and herbs. Oolong is popular in China and is sometimes known as "the burgundy of teas." The highest grade oolongs are grown in Taiwan, where it is not only a preferred selection but is also a source of national pride. 

All in all, there is much more than meets the eye within the vast world of tea. It is a drink steeped (forgive the pun) in history and, as such, worthy of respect. So even if the amber liquid is not your particular cup of tea, the next time you serve some to your guests or sample a cup yourself, remember that your actions may have repercussions more severe than any waxy floor build-up. You may well influence the opinions of political leaders, enhance the wealth of an empire and find yourself responsible for the unfortunate demise of a single teabag. As far as the future is concerned, we must all brace ourselves and be prepared for the ultimate possibility of tea for two with or without sympathy.

If you enjoyed the article above, please be sure to visit the Eat, Drink, and Really Be Merry web site for more humor combined with good research by the same author.

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French Tea -- From Paris to You
by Karen Burns

Karen Burns is a writer and editor who divides her time between Seattle and Paris.

The tearoom capitol of the world is ... Paris!

Betcha thought we were going to say London, didn't you?  Surprise!  Paris has way more tearooms than London. Way more, in fact, than any other European or North American city. 

Why? Well, no one knows, really. But it's true that France, always more of a coffee-drinking country, is now turning its attention to tea. Maybe it's the famous French fascination with food and drink. Maybe it's their fondness for ceremony and ritual of all kinds.

Whatever, the result is that today there are more than 150 tearooms alive and well in Paris. And the variety is amazing:  English, Moroccan, Chinese, Japanese, Tibetan, Viennese, Sri Lankan. Oh, and French of course! 

One of the nicest French-style tearooms in Paris is "À la Cour de Rohan." Small, quiet, elegant, refined, French down to its very fingertips ... À la Cour de Rohan is the embodiment of French tea. Find it at 59, rue Saint-André-des-Arts, in the cour du Commerce, in the 6th arrondissement.

What is it like? Picture this: A cobble-stoned, glass-roofed pedestrian street (that's the cour du Commerce). A turquoise façade, mullioned windows. Hanging beside the door, a teapot-shaped sign reading "À la Cour de Rohan." Inside, tiny round tables swathed in Provençal printed cotton, Louis XVI-style chairs upholstered with tapestry, peach-toned walls, mosaic floor, art deco-inspired flowery chandeliers and sconces. Mozart playing softly. A pair of elegant Frenchwomen, dressed to the nines, chatting in low tones at one table. A professorial-looking man sipping tea alone at another.

In short, heaven.

À la Cour de Rohan features forty teas on its menu, including black, green, smoky, flavored and blended, as well as a tempting array of pâtisserie: cakes, tarts, charlottes, scones, and brioches. Afternoon tea is served from a charming collection of mismatched Limoges. You are never rushed, and are encouraged to choose your pastry from the display table set up at one end of the room. À la Cour de Rohan serves a classic "French tea," which consists simply of a pot of perfectly prepared tea and the pâtisserie of your choice. 

All very interesting, you might say, but this year is not the year you're traveling to Paris. Well, les amis, you can still have your French tea (and drink it too!). Get out your loveliest teapot and cups -- they don't have to be Limoges, simple white porcelain will do. Find some pretty napkins. Add a couple of demitasse spoons (these are very French). Pop a few fresh flowers in a vase. Arrange it all on a pure white cloth, thrown over a tray or a small table near a sunny window. Put Mozart on the CD player, or record player, or radio. Bake a pâtisserie -- a Charlotte Poire Chocolat, for example (see recipe below). Finally, use good quality, loose-leaf tea and prepare it with exquisite care. Madame (or Monsieur), your French tea is ready.

Charlotte Poire Chocolat (Pear and Chocolate Charlotte)
Recipe courtesy of À la Cour de Rohan, Paris

The cakes called "charlottes," close relatives of the English trifle, are not well known in the U.S.  But they should be because they're delicious and surprisingly easy to make. This recipe is especially refreshing in the summer -- the cool clean taste of the pears "cuts" the rich chocolate.

8 ounces bittersweet chocolate
1/2 cup whipping cream
8 ounces crème fraîche
1/2 cup sugar
1 29-ounce can pears
1 package ladyfingers (24 pieces)

Melt the chocolate in a double boiler. Add the cream and stir with a whisk. Mixture should be shiny and smooth. Combine crème fraîche and sugar, and beat with electric beaters until stiff. (Yes, it really does beat up like whipping cream. No, you can't substitute sour cream. Sorry. However, you can make your own crème fraîche by combining 2 cups heavy cream with 2 Tablespoons buttermilk in a glass jar with a screw top. Cover tightly and shake well. Let stand at room temperature for 24 hours.)

Drain pears, reserving liquid. Line an 8-cup charlotte mold with plastic wrap, letting quite a bit extra hang over the sides, enough to fold over the top. (If you don't have a charlotte mold -- and who does?! -- use a 2-quart saucepan with flared sides.)  Then, briefly dipping in pear juice first, line the pan with ladyfingers, starting with the bottom, then going to the sides. Next, do the filling: a layer of whipped crème fraîche, a layer of pears, a layer of melted chocolate, and so on, continuing until you finish with a layer of crème fraîche. (Save a little chocolate for a garnish.)  Last, top with a layer of ladyfingers (also dipped in pear liquid). Fold the extra plastic wrap over the top, push down the charlotte with your hands to help "solidify" it, cover with a heavy plate, and refrigerate overnight. 

Gently slide the charlotte out of the pan (easily done by pulling on the plastic wrap), placing it upside down on a cake plate. Remove all plastic wrap. Warm the reserved chocolate so it is pourable and drizzle over the charlotte. Slice like a layer cake and serve (with tea, naturally). Bon appétit!

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